It seems to be the best-known of all African textiles; an entirely handmade textile made of woven strips, iconic and native to Ghana in West Africa, distinguishable by its bright multi-colours and geometric patterns. The three to four inch wide strips are woven on horizontal treadle looms and then sewn into bigger pieces of cloth of various sizes, the largest sizes for men.

Two distinct types of kente can be found in Ghana, Ashanti and Ewe, the former being better known both at home and abroad, not because it is inferior in quality but due to various historical, political and economic factors.

Typically, Ashanti kente has geometric shapes woven in bright colours along the whole strip, and a decorative border. Ewe kente on the other hand has a tweed effect and sometimes contains graphic symbols such as animals, plants and lettering in English or French.

Nwentoma is the Ashanti (also spelt Asante) local name for Kente cloth. There is no one local name for Ewe kente; it seems that the names given vary depending on where in the region it is woven. Writers, researchers and many tourists tend to use ‘Ewe kente’ to distinguish it from the Asante, often to the dislike of the weavers.

Where is it made?

Bonwire village in the Ashanti Region of Ghana, is the best-known place for kente-weaving – the ‘officially’ recognised centre. There are forty or so towns and villages in the vicinity. Ewe kente weavers are found in south eastern Ghana in the Volta Region. On a smaller scale other tribes in the south of the country do some kente weaving.

In recent years, it has become common to see weavers in the bigger cities such as the capital, Accra, who tend to cater to the tourist market.

Who makes it?

In all of these tribes, weaving is done mainly by men. A belief that weaving made women infertile is prevalent among the men, even though one can find a few female weavers who have broken out of this mould and have normal, healthy children.

Before the use of imported yarn, women spun the cotton and dyed the thread used in making the cloth. It was also their duty to sew the strips together and sell the finished product. This is not entirely a woman’s role though. Some men do machine and or hand sewing as well as run shops or market stalls.

Beginnings of Kente

Some believe kente was first woven for an Ashanti king in the 17^th century using a weaving technique of northern (Mali & Burkina Faso – then Upper Volta) origin from the 12^th or even 11^th century. In a country where historical information was largely passed on by oral tradition, exact dates can be difficult to establish.

According to one Ashanti legend two young men from Bonwire set out on a hunting expedition and came across a spider spinning its web. They were so intrigued that they watched her for a long time and eventually learnt the art of weaving themselves. Ewe oral tradition has a similar story with slight differences. Another account suggests la Cote d’Ivoire as a possible origin.

The very first kente weavers used natural fibres such as raffia, sisal and bark. In Ashanti weavers will tell you that the leaders were so pleased with the new woven material that it became the royal cloth and was saved for special occasions.

Materials Used

In the past, raw or spun cotton was imported from the savannah regions north of Ashanti. Cotton and rayon threads which were previously imported, are now been produced locally. The vast majority of weavers buy commercially produced thread in cotton, rayon, or metallic yarn in the country and abroad. Silk is used only occasionally, and is the only material still imported.

Due mainly to the excellent quality cotton that grows the area, the Ewe still hand-spin and dye cotton and they’re easy to find in the local markets.

Sometimes a mixture of yarns, such as cotton and silk, is used in one strip of kente.

Equipment

Both Ashanti and Ewe weavers use the horizontal narrow-band treadle loom. Apart from small differences, the Ashanti and Ewe looms are similar. Originally built into the ground, they now have wooden bases, making them portable. You can still find some permanent looms in Eweland.

Smaller equipment are heddles pulleys, bobbins and child’s loom.

How is it made?

Kente comes in two distinct textures: single-weave (light) and double-weave (thick and heavier). The rarest and most prestigious of Ashanti kente are the exclusive prerogative of the Asantehene and those he designates (Ross, 81). They have a disctinctive twill pattern and can only be commissioned by the Asantehene or other enititled chiefs.

On the contrary, the Ewe have no dominant royal pattern; as long as you can pay for it, nothing stops you commissioning one you fancy.

Significance of the Designs

Kente is mainly an expression of Ghanaian culture. The patterns and colours in the fabric are a visual illustration of history, moral values, social code of conduct, and religious beliefs, among other things.

Each pattern has a name, derived often from many sources such as history, royalty, proverbs, plants and traditional beliefs. It is common Ashanti practice to name a new pattern to mark an important event during the reign of an Ashanti king and thus become a record of the history of the tribe. Usually, one pattern seeks to convey a complex message. Well over 300 designs, from simple to very complex, have been woven. Surprisingly though, the meanings of some patterns do change over the years.

Unlike Ashanti kente, the process of naming the Ewe cloth is not clearly defined. A complex process, no particular rules are used. Different people give the same pattern different names, based perhaps on what it means to them, and some names change over time.

Such is the national pride in kente that visiting dignitaries are normally given one as a gift and Ghana’s contribution to the United Nations Art Collection is a large piece kente cloth. It is hung in permanent area in the offices in New York, and replaced as needed.

Significance of Colours

Africans love colour! Hence the bright, bold colours of kente. You’ll find that textiles, kente or not, except those worn at funerals, are brightly coloured.

While some believe each shade has a particular significance, it seems that the colours and designs chosen tend to reflect the mood/inspiration of the designer/weaver, and if it’s been commissioned, by the occasion or chosen message of the client.

To celebrate a birth, baptism, or christening, it is likely that patterns with lots of white (combined possibly with gold) would be chosen because white is generally associated with joyous occasions. On the other hand, black and darker colours which are linked with sadness, would be worn to funerals. Black and white are funeral colours in some tribes in Ghana. At royal and festive gatherings you’re sure to see lots of rich colours: yellows, gold, reds, greens and blues, among others.

However, some buyers, especially African Americans, believe each colour has specific importance with regard to kente. And some purchase it with this in mind. In fact, if one was to request any colour or combination of them in a cloth, a weaver would willingly do it as long as the right yarn was available. One can get a pattern in different colours 

Uses of Kente

First made for Ashanti royalty in the 17^th century and worn only in times of extreme importance, Kente is a royal and sacred cloth. Now, its use has became more widespread. However its importance has remained and it is held in high esteem in the Ashanti tribe and the entire country of Ghana.

For most Ghanaians, kente is a prized family heirloom which would have been carefully chosen according to the significance of the occasion. Weddings, births and graduations are some examples.

It goes in and out of fashion among the general population but quality remains important for those who treasure it for its cultural and family significance.

Mainly, the cloth is worn on special occasions such as royal and state gatherings, annual schools/university events such as speech and prize giving days and graduations, and at weddings. It also features in various rites of passage. Some designs are used for bridal wear.

In the past one was only likely to see the most expensive ones worn by royalty, such as the Asantehene – king of the Ashantis. Some chiefs commission a cloth for every special occasion!

National pride in kente together with worldwide demand has led to an increase in its uses. Kente has also been used for hats, ties, shoes, cummerbunds, purses/wallets, briefcases, bags, pack-packs, belts, hairbands, jewellery and more, aimed mainly at the tourist market. The list is endless, depending really on the intended use and bearing in mind that it can only be dry cleaned.

Care for the Fabric

As kente was only worn on important occasions, there was hardly any need to wash it. But if necessary, dry cleaning is recommended only when needed.

 Fancy Kente

Machine printed kente is different from woven kente. You’ll find the print made in China and other countries in West Africa, and although patterns and colours are the same, quality and texture as you can expect are very different indeed!

A lot of the everyday objects are made from this fancy fabric as it is lighter and easier to work with. It is of course, much cheaper.

Some people believe authentic kente is special, sacred almost, and should be worn on special occasions only. These deplore its commercialization and trivialisation by its use for small and everyday articles included in the list above.